Mon Dieu! Gargoyles Galore in Dijon, France

Gargoyle on Phillipe Le Bon Tower DijonDijon, France–Maybe it was Paris’ hunchback of Notre Dame that got people thinking about the gargoyles. Whatever the reason, it’s not enough to just look at sights in France at street level anymore. This is especially true in Dijon, a medieval city that is the start of burgundy wine country. Look up at the Notre Dame Church for its rows of gargoyles. A couple of amazing fellows jut out of the top of the Palace of the Dukes, on Phillipe the Good’s Tower. And of course, in addition to the gargoyles, there are those magnificent burgundy roofs.

Roof in DijonGargoyle on Notre Dame, Dijon

Gargoyle on Notre Dame, Dijon

Gargoyle on Notre Dame, Dijon

Chicago Lakeshore Biking Southside Style


View north from the green roof of the parking structure at 31st Street Beach on Chicago’s south side


Chicago, IL–On a beautiful sunny Chicago weekend, lots of people bike parts of the 18.5 mile Chicago Lakefront Trail. If you want to avoid the crowds that jam the north end of the trail, head south from Museum Campus. The trail winds through trees and prairie to the South Shore Cultural Center at Jackson Park. You can extend your ride along a bike path almost to the squarelsouthpathIndiana border. At the Adler Planetarium, a gorgeous skyline view awaits–the spot that most of the TV stations broadcast the weather. Just south of the planetarium, the 12th Street Beach offers warm sand, gentle water, restrooms and an inexpensive taco stand where you can fuel up for the ride.

If the 12th Street Beach is crowded, a bigger and newer sandy beach awaits at 31st St. Beach and harbor. There, a green roof atop the parking garage offers picnic tables and sunscreens that look like sails, with an ample view to Navy Pier’s fireworks. Further south, the trail cuts through Burnham Centennial Prairie, a birding nature preserve shaded by trees and chirring red-winged blackbirds that will make you feel you’re off in a rural area.

Keep pedaling on to 57th Street Beach, and veer off to visit Hyde Park and the stately elegance of the University of Chicago’s buildings, or continue on to the historic South Shore Cultural Center, built in 1905 for the South Shore Country Club and designated a Chicago landmark in 2004.

If you’re really ambitious, the road continues on US41 South/Lake Shore Drive through the former grounds of  U.S. Steel’s South Works, 470 acres of property that has yet to be developed, though the old steel mill is gone. When the road ends at US 12/20, turn left and tiny Calumet Fisheries at 3259 E. 95th is on your right just at the bridge. Family owned and operated since 1948, Calumet Fisheries offers real oak-smoked salmon, trout, eel, sable, catfish, sturgeon, and whitefish, as well as fried shrimp, fish, crab cakes, and other goodies–enough to earn this simple stand with only a couple of outdoor picnic tables a James Beard Foundation “American Classic” award in 2010. Mmmm. Now that’s a perfect end to a beautiful ride



Having a Chicago Field (Museum) Day

The great hall of the Field Museum

The Stanley Field Hall of the Field Museum

Chicago, IL–The wealth of museums in Chicago make it difficult to decide which to explore first. One of the original city museums, the Field Museum of Natural History, founded right after the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition in one of the fair buildings. It was later moved to its current site at 1400 S. Lake Shore Drive. The Field Museum is one of the largest natural history museums in the world, making it a multi-day destination.

20140419_112411Most visitors are attracted in the main hall to Sue, at 42-feet-long and 13 feet high, the most complete and best-preserved Tyrannosaurus rex fossil. It’s only 67 million years old!

Be sure to check out Sue’s enormous actual fossil head upstairs in a glass case, which couldn’t be put on the model downstairs due to its 600-pound weight.

Dioramas in the Hall of Mammals feature taxidermied animals in their natural habitat. The Field’s first taxidermist, Carl Akeley, revolutionized the art of preserving animals in natural poses. The elephants in the main hall are his work, as well as the famed man-eating lions of Tsavo, a pride of lions that ate 35 people in Kenya, stopping construction in 1898 of a railroad project over the Tsavo River. Chicago’s WGN TV featured the dioramas and their continued effect on education this video.

Lovers of gems and minerals will want to check out the Grainger Hall of Gems, highlighted by a Louis Comfort Tiffany stained glass window. The hall was renovated in 2009 and features 600 gems: diamonds, rubies, emeralds, opals and others from around the world, as well as 150 pieces of jewelry.

Open every day from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., the Field Museum’s basic admission is $18 for adults, $13 for children ages 3-11.

Of course, for Chicagoans, the Field is a source of pride, especially during playoff season. In late April and early May, a dinosaur displays his Blackhawks pride. 20140419_120238


Snowshoeing at Chicago’s Northerly Island

Sculpture at Northerly Island in the winter

Sculpture at Northerly Island in the winter

Chicago, IL–It’s a very snowy, cold winter, but that doesn’t mean you need to stay inside. Bundle up and head over to Chicago’s Northerly Island (yep, the former Miegs Field way over there by the Adler Planetarium) and rent snowshoes or cross-country skis for a little tromp along the lake. Rentals are available for $5 for two hours on weekends from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. in the fieldhouse, the former airport terminal. With the snow falling and traffic noise minimal, it’s very peaceful. Afterward, learn more about the park’s trail construction, which is due to be completed this year.

Don’t miss Polar Adventure Days–the next one is Saturday, Feb. 22, 2014–to participate in ice fishing, checking out live animals, and watch dog-sledding demonstrations. Snowshoe rental is free during the event, too.

All those folks who were mad at Mayor Richard M. Daley for bulldozing the old Meigs Field runway in the middle of the night in 2003 need to see how beautiful it is in the winter. Before it hosted Meigs Field, it was part of Daniel Burnham’s Plan of Chicago as a lakefront park, and hosted the World’s Century of Progress World’s Fair 1933-34. It’s good it’s come back to its roots.

Snowshoes and skis available for rental.

Snowshoes and skis available for rental.

Chicago’s Ferrara Bakery: Original Italian Pasticceria

Outside Ferrara

Chicago, IL–Back in the 60s and 70s, you wouldn’t want to come as far as 2210 W. Taylor St., where Ferrara Bakery  is located. But that was then and this is now. The ever-westward march of the University of Illinois at Chicago and medical campuses have made the west edges of Taylor Street a safer place again.

The downside to this delightful bakery, established in 1908, are those pesky “pay to park” meters in front. If you come on Sunday (hours 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.) the parking is free, however, and you can stock up on biscotti, fresh cannoli, and Italian cookies– even frozen soups and lasagna. But lunch is not served on Sundays. You’ll just have to come back on another day for the inventive salads and sandwiches, including their own handmade pastrami.

I tried a mix of the Italian specialty cookies, including frosted cucidadi, a fig-filled confection that should never be used in the same breath as fig newtons. The vanilla almond raisin biscotti are divine, as is the lemon-custard-filled pasticiotto.pasticiottoFerrara is a familiar name to Chicagoans, as the bakery’s founder, Salvatore Ferrara and his brothers-in-law established the Ferrara Pan Candy Company in nearby Forest Park. They make Lemonheads, Atomic Fireballs, and other delicious treats, which are also for sale at the bakery. It’s a double unique Chicago experience!Candy at Ferrara

Counter at Ferrera Bakery

Yep, it’s Hawkeytown

NHL_Chicago_Blackhawks_freecomputerdesktopwallpaper_1600Chicago, IL–The Stanley Cup is back in Chicago! I’m following @wheresthecup on Twitter to see if I can spot it in person this week. Looking forward to watching the parade on Friday, beginning at Grant Park. What a great day to be in this city!

Rebuilding Chicago’s Wells Street Bridge

Wells Street Bridge rebuilding

Wells Street Bridge rebuilding

Chicago, IL–By the time the summer visitors arrive, work on the Wells Street Bridge over the Chicago River will be history. The bridge carries the city’s famous El trains over the river to and from the Loop, road traffic over it, foot traffic alongside. And of course ferry and other river traffic flows beneath it. For those of us who have watched this fascinating rebuilding, it’s a feat of engineering.

New sections were built offsite, then floated on huge platforms to the old bridge. The original 1922 sections were cut away in two phases, and the final new section is being installed now. While Wells Street Bridge construction is not as famous  as the 1883 Brooklyn Bridge, it evokes similar reactions of amazement from passersby.

Next time you’re in the city, you might want to take a moment to reflect on the amazing architecture over the river as well as alongside it.

Cut off old section of Wells Street bridge.

Cut off old section of Wells Street bridge.

Opportunity Knocks at openhousechicago2012

A view of the old Sears Tower from the original Sears Tower

La Casita de don Pedro

St. Adalbert’s in Pilsen

Chicago, IL--This weekend’s openhousechicago was a rare chance to see the original Sears Tower of Homan Square in Lawndale, a peek into the dusty projector room at a former vaudeville and movie house in Pilsen, and Jens Jensen’s office in Humboldt Park, among 150 sites open and free to the public. You just had to show up.

Even spitting rain wouldn’t deter me from heading to Homan Square, and take a tour of the yet-to-be-restored brick tower landmark at 900 S. Homan Ave. From the 14th floor, I could easily see the second Sears Tower (now Willis Tower), site of my first job out of college. Across the street, students offered guided tours of Power House High, in a building that once housed the power generators for the Sears campus. The school preserved a few of the ash ovens and conveyer belts that men worked in front of, as the enormous chimney burned coal to fire the plant.

From Lawndale, it was a short drive to Pilsen and home to Apollo 2000 Theater at 2875 W. Cermak Road. The Mexican community hosts lavish parties in the former vaudeville and movie house, but a tight stairway up to the projector room shows a world left behind–large projectors still sitting, empty film cannisters and boxes marked “trailer” sit waiting for the last picture show. Los Corrales, a restaurant next door to the theater, made a great lunch stop with reasonably priced food and excellent service.

St. Adalbert’s Church, 1650 W. 17th St., an Italian Renaissance style church originally built for the Poles who once lived in Pilsen, still offers a mass in Polish. Polish words are inscribed above the magnificent white marble altar. But Mexican families were there with babies on this weekend, as well as tourists like me taking photos of the artwork and the replica of Michelangelo’s Pieta.

Heading northwest, the next stop was La Casita de don Pedro at 2625 W. Division. It’s a traditional Puerto Rican home with tin roof and front porch, and local residents gather for drumming workshops. The courtyard statue of Don Pedro Albizu Campos, honors the Puerto Rican who fought for independence and died shortly after release from a U.S. federal prison. Farther west, Humboldt Park’s restored 1896 stables building at 3015 W. Division, is home to the Institute of Puerto Rican Arts & Culture. The former office of famed landscape architect Jens Jensen is still being restored, but the panoramic views from the semi-circle shaped room span the park and even over to his former home, a greystone across the street.

Also in the 219-acre Humboldt Park: the Refectory and Boat House at 1440 N. Humboldt Drive, a Prairie-style building on the National Register of Historic Places  overlooking a lake, and well as the Humboldt Park Field House at 1440 N. Sacramento, featuring two gyms and a ballroom, flanked by marble columns.

North and east of Humboldt Park, Uptown hosted a number of venues, but time was running short. I ended my tour of the day at Agudas Achim North Shore Congregation at 5029 N. Kenmore Ave.. The last extant cathedral-style synagogue in the city, closed since 2008, reopened for this event. Climbing the old marble stairs to the sanctuary, where a glittering Italian mosaic ark stood, as rain dripped through the ceiling and left puddles on the floor. Rotting sills leaked air and light around the stained glass windows. Pigeons perched on the women’s balcony. Agudas Achim, an Orthodox congregation that serves an immigrant population in the nearby neighborhood, still hopes to save the building.

So many sites and so little time. Next year, I’ll be starting my tours of openhousechicago a little earlier.

Apollo 2000 Theater projection room

Agudas Achim North Shore Congregation’s mosaic ark


Spa Time at West Baden Springs, Indiana

Sprudel Bath at Spa at West Baden Springs

West Baden Springs, IN–The Sprudel Bath at the Spa at West Baden Springs takes you back to historic beginnings of the hotel. Here you can partake of the healing waters, filled with 22 minerals that give off hydrogen sulphide and carbon dioxide gas. The nose may wrinkle at this old-fashioned odorous soak, but oh, it is soothing. And it couldn’t be presented more beautifully in a private bathing room in the 14,000 sq. ft. spa. At $45 for a 25-minute soak, it’s one of the less-expensive treatments, and still includes time in the relaxation room and sauna. The mineral waters are reputed to relieve stress and pain, and I have to say I emerged a little shaky in the legs. Check out the crusty minerals–calcium carbonate, calcium sulphate, magnesium sulphate, among others–on the cold water tap. And if you’re tempted to sip a cup, just know that it does affect the digestion. “Pluto water” from the springs was once bottled and sold under the tagline, “When nature won’t, Pluto will.” 

Racine, America’s Kringle Capital

Racine, WI–An hour north of Chicago, 30 miles south of Milwaukee, Racine includes rolling farmland, a harbor on Lake Michigan, and lots of kringles. Due to the many Danish settlers here, the pastry made from 32 layers of flaky dough that’s hand-shaped became a popular item in local bakeries. Today you’ll find it comes topped with pecans (hands-down the most popular), or filled with fruit like Michigan cherries or blueberries, and of course, chocolate varieties. Though they’re known as a Christmas specialty, they are made year round here.  A video shows the process in super-speed.

I checked out two of the four main bakeries in Racine. First stop was at the original kringle bakery, Larsen’s in downtown at 3311 Washington Ave.. The bakery’s quite basic, and the folks quite friendly.  Kringles come packed in a box so they don’t get squished on the ride home. We chose strawberry-mango and pecan, but the flavors ranged from orange dreamsicle to chocolate filled. Kringle rating: outstanding.

Next, I went upscale to O & H Danish Bakery and  the Danish Uncle Marketplace at 4006 Durand Ave. They offered a large selection of flavors, and the place was bustling with people buying kringles and other baked goods. If you’re looking to shop a bit for home decor along with your baked goods, this is your place. O&H Bakery also offers kringles for sale in the Petro Truck Stop right off 94, but really, that’s cheating. You really need to venture into Racine for a real kringle.

Kringles cost about $8.50 each in Racine bakeries, and online range from $19-35 each.

There are other Racine bakeries offering kringles, and many of the suburbs around Racine sell them. Here are two other Racine outlets to try and enjoy:

Lehmann’s Bakery lays claim as the oldest continuously operating bakery in Racine, at 4900 Spring St.. They roll and fold the dough into 140 layers.

Bendtsen’s Bakery and Cafe at 3200 Washington Ave., draws coffee drinkers and pastry tasters every morning.