TheRoadScholar » Travel

Dam Good Kayaking on Skokie Lagoons

TheRoadScholar — Tue, 27 Jul 2010 17:56:14 +0000

Glencoe, IL–What a treat! Record rainfall covered the Skokie Lagoons dams, making it easy to access all ponds without portaging. I paddled from the Tower Road boat launch down to the Willow Road dam first. Cormorants fished in their usual spot at the far south pond. A great blue heron eyed me from his perch atop a bat box, uncertain about my red boat approaching. Paddling back north, I tried to go against the flow of the main dam at Tower Road. Rather than push it, I went around the eastern ponds where a couple of green herons were fishing. It was an easy glide over the northeast dam and to a small set of ponds there. They closely connect to the western ponds, and I slipped out of the kayak and back in on the western side, closest to the bike trail. Magnificent! This water trail leads right up into the Chicago Botanic Garden, just past Willow Road. There you can slip right next to flowering plants and alone with nature. I spied a huge 1-foot diameter turtle sunning himself on a log on my return trip–the first turtle I’ve seen all summer. At one point a red-tailed hawk etched circles over me. Blue and green herons, terns, hawks, cardinals, sparrows, turtles–dam good.

The Skirt is Off!

TheRoadScholar — Sat, 17 Jul 2010 23:06:23 +0000

When the temperature hits 90° plus, it’s time to ditch the spray skirt. Head out early, keep to the shadows, and paddle out in the Skokie Lagoons on a hot July day.

Lots of fishermen: a baker’s dozen of blue herons doing their goofy, loping head forward walk in the shallows, a family of mallards, a tern diving for a snack. A pair of belted kingfishers played tag before starting their fishing expedition.

The cormorants perched high in their leafless tree. A flock of Canada geese plumped and preened, the surface of the water covered with floating feathers. One goose stood alone on a log, his head tucked on his back while he slept. He’d probably be comfortable sleeping on an airplane, too.

No turtles were out sunning–perhaps it was too warm for them.

After two hours, I finally turned back, lamenting the fact that I hadn’t seen my favorite night heron this year at all, nor a green heron. Miraculously, at that moment a green heron appeared at the water’s edge, biding his time as dragonflies flitting about his head. It was a wonderful show, the heron walking up and down a log, onto rocks, and finally a quick peck in the water for his breakfast snack.

Skirtless July day: sweet.

Back to Mayberry

TheRoadScholar — Fri, 25 Jun 2010 11:05:08 +0000

Floyd's City Barber Shop in Mt. Airy, NC

Mount Airy, NC–Remember The Andy Griffith Show and Mayberry RFD? Even if you never saw the original TV show, you can see the original Mayberry in real time at Griffith’s hometown. There’s Floyd’s City Barber Shop, where haircuts are still $8. Dine on a pork chop sandwich at Snappy Lunch. Get your jalopy fixed at Wally’s Garage. Shops throughout downtown Mount Airy celebrate the old TV series, especially the shenanigans of Barney Fife and his catchphrase “Nip it in the bud.” (Check out this YouTube mashup for a refresher.)

Just one thing: like the TV Mayberry, Sunday is “go to meetin’” day, so nothing, absolutely nothing is open. Guess I’ll have to come back September 23-26 for Mayberry Days–maybe I’ll even see Floyd and get a haircut.

Snappy Lunch

Greensboro’s O. Henry Hotel: Local Flair

TheRoadScholar — Fri, 23 Apr 2010 10:56:09 +0000

Lobby of the O. Henry Hotel, Greensboro. Photo courtesy O. Henry Hotel.

Greensboro, NC–The O.Henry Hotel is quirky. But it’s the good kind of quirky, one you wish you’d see more often in a hotel.

A genuine London taxi (gosh, it’s cute!) sits at the portico, waiting to take guests to and from the nearby airport. The restaurant, Green Valley Grill, features fresh, local produce, all well-presented and tasty. Guest rooms sport the fine linens and fine furniture you’d expect, but also have nice touches like a dressing area with a permanent stand for suitcases. Windows open in guest rooms for those who love the fresh air.

In the ornate lobby: artist Chip Holton paints watercolors, which will decorate the guestrooms, then he’s on to creating pen-and-ink pieces for the public spaces. In all the hotels I’ve visited, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a guest artist, but I love the concept.

Why the name? Well, the famous short story writer was born in Greensboro. For a reminder of his work, look up in the lobby to see his most famous story, The Gift of the Magi. Yes, that’s a good kind of quirky.

Arts A Poppin’ in Kansas City

TheRoadScholar — Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:16:04 +0000

Meretites sarcophogus, getting moved into exhibit position

Kansas City–Arts galleries, shops, and museums are blooming along with the spring flowers here. The venerable Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art, with a 33,000+ collection, in May opens a new Egyptian permanent exhibit featuring a 7-foot tall sarcophogus of Meretites. Other don’t miss sites at the free admission, free parking museum: many Thomas Hart Benton pieces and the 17-ft tall shuttlecocks on the lawn.

From there, head over to the small but significant Kemper Museum of Contemporary Art. An enormous spider sculpture stands sentinel on the lawn. Glass works by Dale Chihuly decorate the entrance to the intimate Cafe Sebastienne. Their motto, “Come to eat, stay for the art.” Again, free admission and free parking.

The Kemper has a satellite gallery in the burgeoning Crossroads District. Paintings by Ian Davis, the “Earnest Skeptic” are on display until June 19, 2010. his work is characterized by crowds of identically dressed men assembled around massive works of architecture or construction.

Kansas City offers so many art venuesthat there’s now a First Friday, a Second Friday, and a Third Friday of gallery walks. Artistic spots seem to pop up like flowers after a spring rain.

Swiss Cow Fighting Coming Soon

TheRoadScholar — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 15:01:31 +0000

Bikers ride past cows in St. Moritz. Photo by Laurie Borman

Switzerland–The English had their bulldogs baiting bulls (outlawed in the 1800s) and the Spanish have their bullfights. In spring, it’s time for cow fighting in Switzerland.

A special small, black breed, Heréns, found in Central Valis, and Valle d’Aosta in Northern Italy as well) like to fight for the chance to lead the herd up the Alpines in the spring. Sort of a cow beauty queen contest, with locked horns and a lot of head butting involved.

According to Swiss tourism, “The fights do not take place in organised fashion; each cow simply chooses her opponent on the spur of the moment. She suddenly stops grazing, lowers her head, snorts, and paws the ground with her hooves. If a cow of similar strength accepts the challenge, she wastes no time in informing her opponent in the same manner.”

Then they start takin’ names and kickin’ butt. Or rather, butt heads. They wrangle for a few minutes, and eventually one gives up and turns tail. The winner will follow aggressively, getting in a last few licks before the contest ends.

The Swiss also organize a few contests and declare a regional and cantonial queen. But does she get a tiara?

The cows I encountered on my visit to Switzerland a few years ago were quite docile and not inclined to head butting at all.

Vancouver Olympics Nibbles

TheRoadScholar — Tue, 23 Feb 2010 08:04:42 +0000

A Vancouver Island friend has been regaling me with her Olympic insider tips. She suggests hitting the Quebec House, with an open-air bar and a poutine chef. If you’ve not been to Quebec– and maybe even if you have–you might not have tried poutine, a gooey gravy-and-cheese-curd-covered french fry mess. Seriously, how did the Québécois with their sophisticated palates and amazing wines come up with such an obviously Midwestern dish? It’s almost as if some Wisconsinites surrepticiously slid over the border and into the kitchen.

If you’re actually in Vancouver and want some of those fries right now, the Quebec House is at the Concord Pacific site between Sochi House (Science World) and BC Place. It’s open from noon to midnight daily, but the entertainment doesn’t start until afte 5:30 p.m. Bon chance, mon amis!

Vancouver Top Five Favorite Things

TheRoadScholar — Tue, 16 Feb 2010 21:13:32 +0000

Aquabus will take you in and around Vancouver. Photo by Laurie Borman

Vancouver, British Columbia–Everybody’s watching Vancouver, with the Olympics in full swing. It’s cool, it’s sophisticated, it’s laid-back, and one of the best cities to visit. Here are my top five favorite things about Vancouver:

Artful Caffe Artigiano latte. Photo by Laurie Borman

Custom-made lattes. Get a latte, cafe au lait, cappuchino, double-shot espresso. Whatever your prefernce in coffee, Vancouver barristas serve it with style. At Caffé Artigiano, (I like the one at 574 Granville) they’ll pour a leaf design, maybe make Olympics rings. Ask and you shall enjoy.

Water taxis. Hop aboard a water taxi for a shortcut to the city’s sites. They’re so much fun you might want to take a taxi to nowhere. The most colorful: Aquabus.

Boutique bonanza. You don’t have to buy, but you’ll definitely be tempted by the many shops here. There’s a veritable bevy of fashion designers. Check out Smokin’ Lily on Main St.

Breakfast, Lunch, Pie. Coffee’s great, but if you really want some good grub, I’d head over to Sophie’s Cosmic Café in the Kitsilano neighborhood, 2095 4th Avenue West. She serves a mile-high pie to die for, tasty breakfast burritos. Oh, I’m drooling. Excuse me.

Sophie of Sophie's Cosmic Cafe, shows off her mile-high pie. Photo by Laurie Borman

Stanley Park. It may be cliche, but Stanley Park really makes my stay. Walk amongst the trees, watch crew teams out on the water. It’s 1000 acres of park within a walking distance of major hotels downtown. An outdoor lovers’ dream.

Stanley Park. Photo courtesy Tourism Vancouver / Tom Ryan

Indianapolis vs. New Orleans: It’s Not As Big Easy As You Think

TheRoadScholar — Fri, 05 Feb 2010 21:29:22 +0000

It’s Super Bowl weekend when the Indianapolis Colts face the New Orleans Saints in Miami. I don’t know much about football, so I was wondering, “What if the game were decided on which city was a better destination to visit?” Now that’s a topic I’m well versed in! And it’s not as Big Easy as you think. Here’s the lineup:

Eiteljorg Museum. Photo by Laurie Borman

Joint Chiefs of Jazz. Photo by Laurie Borman

New Orleans has:

1. Charming architecture. The French Quarter looks quite respectible, given its age and numerous calamities that have befallen the city. There are even walking tours of the quarter, pointing out wrought-iron balcony details. The streetcar runs through the Garden District, a lovely, tree-lined neighborhood that’s home to Tulane University.

2. Amazing food. Katrina dealt a blow to the restaurant business here, but it’s snapped back in shape. This is where Bananas Foster was invented (Brennan’s) and it’s good form to order a Brandy Alexander with your breakfast. Gotta love ‘em.

3. Edgy tours. Join a tour of the above-ground graves in New Orleans’ cemeteries. Since the city is below sea level, bodies would never stay buried if they did it the traditional way. Fascinating stuff. Second lines form at funerals, as people dance and jazz their way to the gravesite.

4. Abundant Jazz. Music is what this city thrives on, almost as much as the food. Just stroll a city street and you’ll hear jazz floating out the doors of bars or catch a street performance. Jean Lafitte National Historic Park, right by Cafe Du Monde (get a tasty beignet but skip the chickory coffee) offers free performances on a regular basis.

5. Mardi Gras. This could be a pro or a con, depending on how you like to party. One of our Chicago suburbs just banned throwing candy from parade floats, so that kind of wild abandon is frowed upon up here. Who doesn’t like a good parade, though? You’ll find glittery plastic throws still handing on trees in the Garden District months after Mardi Gras is over.

And of course, New Orleans continues to rebuild the city that Katrina tore through. You have to love their spirit.

Gondola ride in Indy. Photo by Laurie Borman

Indianapolis

boasts:

1. Clean, pristine, and surprisingly vibrant downtown. Ride a gondola boat in the White River State Park canal, go ice skating where Olympic champions train at Pan Am Plaza, dine on fine steak at St. Elmo’s.

2. Compelling Museums. Oogle the T-Rex and ride an indoor carousel at the world’s largest Children’s Museum, check out native American arts at the Eiteljorg Museum of American Indians and Western Art, or stroll the lush lawn and admire pieces such as Robert Indiana’s iconic LOVE sculpture at the Indianapolis Museum of Art. Just outside the city, Conner Prairie Interactive History Park takes visitors back to the early 1800s in a recreated historic settlement.

3. Bike paths galore. Indy’s got greenways. It’s easy to rent a bike and ride the Monon Trail to the neighborhood of Broad Ripple for eclectic art, brew pubs, and local restaurants. Downtown, there are several bike path spokes that head out to other neighborhoods: Massachusetts Avenue Arts District; Fountain Square with duck pin bowling and antique; the University complex. It’s an relaxed ride into history and trails are well marked.

4. Growing restaurant/dining/nightlife options. Indy’s got its own traditions for dining, if not Brandy Alexander for brunch. In addition to St. Elmo’s (listed above), Indy’s downtown hot spots include Slippery Noodle Inn, where there’s music every night and it claims the title of Indiana’s oldest bar (and a former brothel to boot!). For breakfast, sample Cafe Patachou, with tasty omelettes and bakery specials worth waking up for. My favorite is Shapiro’s, a deli serving mile-high corned beef sandwiches and amazing cheesecake. Yes, there’s a lot of chains populating this city, but there are plenty of local options that make it a worthy dining scene.

5. Indianapolis 500. Parades, Mayor’s breakfast, mini-marathons, qualifications. Indianapolis pulls out all the stops for the entire month of May to celebrate the Indianapolis 500. And you can visit the 500 Indianapolis Motor Speedway throughout the year to see racecars and learn the history.

It looks like we’re going to have to toss a coin for this one.

A Few of My Favorite Chicago Winter Things

TheRoadScholar — Thu, 07 Jan 2010 14:01:39 +0000

Chicago, IL–Six inches or more of fluffy white powder is falling today in the city. It’s making a nice covering of all the dog tracks in my yard and helps keep those icy spots on the sidewalks from being too slippery. Along with fresh snow, these are a few of my favorite Chicago winter things:

1. Snowshoeing in the forest preserves. Heller Nature Center in Highland Park has a few miles of cross country trails that are peaceful, quiet, and scenic. I’m headed for the two forest preserves near my house today: Ft. Sheridan Forest Preserve and Openlands Lakefront Preserve. Let’s see how Lake Michigan is enjoying the snow.

2. Catching a performance at the Lyric Opera of Chicago. The Merry Widow has just three shows left, and it’s a delightful operetta with gorgeous period costumes and great singing in the magnificent setting of the opera house. Tosca starts Sunday, a favorite of mine as I was a supernumerary (nonsinging) in Tosca at Indiana University back in my college days.

: The Merry Widow. Photo by DanRest/Lyric Opera

3. Ice skating on a public outdoor rink. I made it to the Rink at Wrigley, and now I’m checking out the ones in the north shore communities. Most have a park district rink with a warming hut. Nothing says winter like ice skating!

4. Downhill skiing at Wilmot Mountain. Wilmot Mountain is a small downhill area near my home, so it’s on my list for the next week while the powder is fresh. If you live in the Midwest, there is a ski area near you, trust me on this.

5. Listening to some blues. Chicago is home to the blues, and nothing says blues more than winter. Now that places are smoke-free, it’s a much more enjoyable diversion.