Indianapolis vs. New Orleans: It's Not As Big Easy As You Think

It’s Super Bowl weekend when the Indianapolis Colts face the New Orleans Saints in Miami.  I don’t know much about football, so I was wondering, “What if the game were decided on which city was a better destination to visit?”  Now that’s a topic I’m well versed in!  And it’s not as Big Easy as you think.  Here’s the lineup:

Eiteljorg Museum.  Photo by Laurie Borman

Eiteljorg Museum. Photo by Laurie Borman

Treme neighborhood home

 

 

 

Joint Chiefs of Jazz.  Photo by Laurie Borman

Joint Chiefs of Jazz. Photo by Laurie Borman

New Orleans has:

1. Charming architecture.  The French Quarter looks quite respectible, given its age and numerous calamities that have befallen the city.  There are even walking tours of the quarter, pointing out wrought-iron balcony details.  The streetcar runs through the Garden District, a lovely, tree-lined neighborhood that’s home to Tulane University.

2. Amazing food.  Katrina dealt a blow to the restaurant business here, but it’s snapped back in shape.  This is where Bananas Foster was invented (Brennan’s) and it’s good form to order a Brandy Alexander with your breakfast.  Gotta love ‘em.

3. Edgy tours. Join a tour of the above-ground graves in New Orleans’ cemeteries.  Since the city is below sea level, bodies would never stay buried if they did it the traditional way.  Fascinating stuff.  Second lines form at funerals, as people dance and jazz their way to the gravesite. 

4. Abundant Jazz.  Music is what this city thrives on, almost as much as the food.  Just stroll a city street and you’ll hear jazz floating out the doors of bars or catch a street performance.   Jean Lafitte National Historic Park, right by Cafe Du Monde (get a tasty beignet but skip the chickory coffee) offers free performances on a regular basis.

5. Mardi Gras.  This could be a pro or a con, depending on how you like to party.  One of our Chicago suburbs just banned throwing candy from parade floats, so that kind of wild abandon is frowed upon up here.  Who doesn’t like a good parade, though?  You’ll find glittery plastic throws still handing on trees in the Garden District months after Mardi Gras is over. 

And of course, New Orleans continues to rebuild the city that Katrina tore through.  You have to love their spirit.

Gondola ride in Indy. Photo by Laurie Borman

Gondola ride in Indy. Photo by Laurie Borman

Indianapolis

boasts:

1. Clean, pristine, and surprisingly vibrant downtown.  Ride a gondola boat in the White River State Park canal, go ice skating where Olympic champions train at Pan Am Plaza, dine on fine steak at St. Elmo’s.

2. Compelling  Museums.  Oogle the T-Rex and ride an indoor carousel at the world’s largest Children’s Museum, check out native American arts at the Eiteljorg Museum of American Indians and  Western Art, or stroll the lush lawn and admire pieces such as Robert Indiana’s iconic LOVE sculpture at the Indianapolis Museum of Art.   Just outside the city, Conner Prairie Interactive History Park  takes visitors back to the early 1800s in a recreated historic settlement.

3. Bike paths galore.  Indy’s got greenways.  It’s easy to rent a bike and ride the Monon Trail to the neighborhood of Broad Ripple for eclectic art, brew pubs, and local restaurants.  Downtown, there are several bike path spokes that head out to other neighborhoods: Massachusetts Avenue Arts District; Fountain Square with duck pin bowling and antique; the University complex.  It’s an relaxed ride into history and trails are well marked.

4. Growing restaurant/dining/nightlife options.  Indy’s got its own traditions for dining, if not Brandy Alexander for brunch.  In addition to St. Elmo’s (listed above), Indy’s downtown hot spots include Slippery Noodle Inn, where there’s music every night and it claims the title of Indiana’s oldest bar (and a former brothel to boot!).  For breakfast, sample Cafe Patachou, with tasty omelettes and bakery specials worth waking up for.  My favorite is Shapiro’s, a deli serving mile-high corned beef sandwiches and amazing cheesecake.  Yes, there’s a lot of chains populating this city, but there are plenty of local options that make it a worthy dining scene.

5. Indianapolis 500.  Parades, Mayor’s breakfast, mini-marathons, qualifications.  Indianapolis pulls out all the stops for the entire month of May to celebrate the Indianapolis 500.  And you can visit the 500 Indianapolis Motor Speedway throughout the year to see racecars and learn the history. 

It looks like we’re going to have to toss a coin for this one.

Illinois Winter Wonderland: Ft. Sheridan Nature Preserve

Ft. Sheridan Forest Preserve path in winter. Photo by Laurie Borman

Ft. Sheridan Forest Preserve path in winter. Photo by Laurie Borman

Trees raise their limbs to the sky.  Photo by Laurie Borman
Trees raise their limbs to the sky. Photo by Laurie Borman

Highland Park/Highwood, IL–Fresh snow covers the paths of Ft. Sheridan Nature Preserve in Lake County.  Only a few birds pierce the silence.  This is the time to trod in snowshoes, down the path to the lake and back up through the trees. Check out the lakebergs forming in Lake Michigan, the snow that recaps Queen Anne’s lace in white. I don’t know why people don’t come here now, but I’m happy to have the place to myself.

Lake Michigan's frozen flating bergs. Photo by Laurie Borman

Lake Michigan's frozen flating bergs. Photo by Laurie Borman

More Waikiki Mountain Biking

Women bikers take a break in Oahu.  Photo by Laurie Borman

Women bikers take a break in Oahu. Photo by Laurie Borman

Mountain biking in Kaaawa Valley.  Photo by Laurie Borman
Mountain biking in Kaaawa Valley. Photo by Laurie Borman
Movie crew working in Kaaawa Valley.  Photo by Laurie Borman

Movie crew working in Kaaawa Valley. Photo by Laurie Borman

“Lost” Premier on Waikiki Beach

Diamond Head Lighthouse.  Photo by Laurie Borman

Diamond Head Lighthouse. Photo by Laurie Borman

 

 

Waikiki, HI–The season premier of “Lost” hits the big screen in Waikiki before the rest of America will see it.  It’s showing as part of Sunset on the Beach, where  free movies are shown on Friday and Saturday nights on a 30-ft. screen right on Waikiki Beach.  The city even sets up chairs and of course there’s food for sale.  I think they might be expecting a little bit bigger crowd for this one, though.

I’m not a “Lost” fan.  As a matter of fact, I don’t even have cable T.V. or any television reception whatsoever.  The excitement of the “Lost” premier is almost lost on me.  But I have been to Waikiki Beach, and I’ve been mountain biking in the Oahu setting where the series is filmed. (You can bike there, too with Bike Hawaii: the rugged scenery is from Kaaawa Valley.)   Both are spectacular places that bring back that “ahhhh” feeling of calm and peace and boundless love for the earth. 

At the far edge of Waikiki Beach, Diamond Head Lighthouse overlooks the ocean.  It’s a vigorous climb up the crater and a series of steps to a magnificent, windblown view of Waikiki and the lighthouse below.  Guided hikes through Discover Hawaii Tours cost $25 and include rt transportation from Waikiki hotels, and $5 if you drive in yourself.  If you can’t make it to the “Lost” premier, you can always hike Diamond Head.  Afterward, go have some shave ice and wait for the movie to start. 

I think I need to look up airfares to Oahu now.

Photo by Laurie Borman

Photo by Laurie Borman

Mountain biking on Oahu.  Photo by Laurie Borman

Mountain biking on Oahu. Photo by Laurie Borman

Hitchin’ Up the Huskies at Morton Arboretum Sunday!

Dog sledding at Morton Arboretum. Photo by Laurie Borman

Dog sledding at Morton Arboretum. Photo by Laurie Borman

 

Lisle, IL–Little kids, big kids, and adults who wished they were kids turned out to see the dog sledding demonstrations at the Morton Arboretum today.  (The dogs will also be there tomorrow, Jan. 31,  from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.)  Adopt A Husky brought out several Siberian huskies that are available for adoption, and the Adopt A Husky folks let kids of all ages pet the dogs.  They also deomonstrated skijoring (being pulled by a dog while on cross-country skis) and dog sledding.  Since the snow barely covered the ground, the teams moved from sleds early in the day to tri-cycle-like contraptions called rigs for the later demos. 

 The Husky Days event at the Morton Aboretum has been going on for five years, with a Winterfest event before that.  It’s a great way to get people out among the trees and enjoy the winter, according to Gina Tedesco of the Morton Arboretum.

The dogs were remarkably calm, and seemed to enjoy all the attention of the children.  Huskies are very pack oriented and the more people, the more dogs, the happier they are, says  Noel Dagley, the treasurer of Adopt A Husky, and an organizer for the event.  She and her husband Mike got their first husky, Maverick, 13 years ago.  He still races with them.  Noting the quiet behavior, she said, “This all goes out the window once they see the first dog get hooked up.  Then they will erupt.”  And sure enough, when the handlers start hitching up the sleds, the dogs howl on cue.

Visitors also enjoyed a movie, “Iditerod, the Last Great Race”, and a talk by Carol Preble, who came with her Siberian husky, Arrow, that ran in the Iditerod.  The race commemorates a 674-mile relay race from Anchorage to Nome that brought diptheria serum in -50F weather in 1925.  Preble talked about Arrow’s role in the race, and showed a series of photos detailing the race, even the “dog parking lots” where the teams rest at checkpoints.  (The 2010 Iditerod begins March 13.)

If you come out, steel yourself, because you’ll want to adopt your own husky once you see the startling blue-eyed creatures in action.Morton Arboretum 097

Husky. Photo by Laurie Borman

Husky. Photo by Laurie Borman

Harnessed up. Photo by Laurie Borman

Harnessed up. Photo by Laurie Borman

Morton Arboretum 018

Chicago's Spertus Institute Architecture Tour

Spertus Institute at 610 S. Michigan Ave., Photo by William Zbaren

Spertus Institute at 610 S. Michigan Ave., Photo by William Zbaren

Crown Great Hall. Photo by William Zbaren.

Crown Great Hall. Photo by William Zbaren.

Chicago’s Spertus Institute of Jewish Studies built an amazing structure on historic Michigan Avenue in 2007, all angles of glass and ribs of steel. You might be thinking, ugh, I hate those cold all-glass buildings, and in the middle of beautiful Michigan Ave., it must be especially gross. It’s not. The amazing structure sits on a small footprint and juts out just a wee bit beyond the adjacent structures. It’s like a ten-story faceted jewel. Architecture writer Cheryl Kent noted that “the building’s crystalline facade fits in superbly, if surprisingly, on a street full of stone and brick landmarks, mostly from the turn of the 19th century.”
The LEED-certified building, designed by Chicago-based Krueck & Sexton Architects, features 726 pieces of glass in 556 shapes. They’re attached to custom-made metal ribs in varying angles to give the unique prism-like front.
On a Spertus architecture tour, (there’s one on Sunday, Jan. 31 at 4 p.m., and another in March) you will get a bottom to top walk-through with a staff expert, learning about the special qualities of the glass, where to stand to get a sky-view north along Michigan Ave., and even the features of the stacking bookshelves in the library.
Tours last about an hour and are $15 for adults, $10 for students, but you must book in advance at www.spertus.edu or call 312.322.1773.   After the tour, plan to spend time looking at the Spertus Museum, as admission is included in the tour fee. The exhibit “What Does It Say to You?” runs through March 14, 2010, with 60 objects and videos of reactions of the objects.

Asher Library. Photo by Laurie Borman

Asher Library. Photo by Laurie BormanSpertus Museum. Photo by Laurie Borman

Chicago’s Big City Ice Skating Unrivaled

Millenium_Park_Ice_skating_by_the_Bean1[1]Chicago, IL–Ice skating at Millenium Park has to be the coolest, most amazing free thing to do in a big city.  No offense, Rockefeller Center, but you’ve got nothing on us.  Let me innumerate:

1. FREE.  (Versus nearly $20 at Rockefeller Center, and that’s if the ice isn’t already booked by a private party.)

2. Skate rental is $10, but you can bring your own, and you’re not wearing something that was on another person’s sweaty feet a few minutes before. (OK, Rockefeller Center’s rental is $9, so it’s a mite cheaper.)

3. Unobstructed view of Michigan Avenue, a national historic district.  Seriously, you could hail a cab from the rink. (Versus potential glimpses of 5th Ave. and Avenue of the Americas.  And if it’s bad weather, you know you can’t hail a cab anywhere in NYC.)

4. Skating under the shining Bean (a.k.a. Cloudgate).  (Versus gliding under the watchful gaze of the gold Prometheus statue of Rockefeller Center.  Well, that’s almost a tossup.)

5.  Ice skating lessons are free on Saturday mornings and dance parties are free on Friday and Saturday evenings in February. (Versus $30 at Rockefeller Center for lessons.)

6. Our Chicago Blackhawks hockey team is awesome. (So what if it doesn’t have anything to do with the McCormick Tribune Ice Rink?  Just sayin’.)

Enough said.  Get your skates and get to Millenium Park.  Millenium_Park_Ice_Skating crop

Gettin’ In On The Iditarod

 

 

Outside Wasilla, AK.  Photo by Laurie Borman

Outside Wasilla, AK. Photo by Laurie Borman

Anchorage, AK–At the height of summer, it’s hard to imagine what Alaska looks like when it’s Iditarod time.  Everything was gorgeous and green when I visited in June, 2009. What’s not hard to imagine is the long distances between towns and villages, because even in the height of 18-hour daylight summer days, the drives can be daunting.  (Read Jack London or Alaska’s Wolf Man by Jim Rearden to set the mood.) Switch that mix to short, dark days combined with bone-chilling temps and snow, and you’ve got some serious racing. 

This year’s race include a rookie from Chicago–Pat Moon of Park Ridge, IL.  And there’s a Jamaican guy–what’s up with that?  Doesn’t he know everyone’s heading TO Jamaica in March? 

The Iditarod runs more than 1100 miles, with teams of dogs that have been trained year round.  Lest you think that the mushers are getting a free, albeit cold, ride, it’s time to correct your assumption.  Mushing is a lot of pushing and kicking (think riding a Razr Scooter) as you help the dogs along and hope the sled does not tip.  It’s no fun running after a team of full-out racing dogs hitched to a now-riderless sled.  Trust me on this.  A four-hour dog sledding trip I enjoyed in Jasper, Canada left me tired, hungry, and ready for the hot tub. 

My recommendation is to bid on a slot in the basket of a sled in the Iditarod auction.  You can choose your musher.  Minimum bid is $500.  Basket riders tag along for only 11 miles, but that’s more than enough to earn bragging rights for riding  in the Iditarod, right?

Me, getting friendly with the Jasper sled dogs.

Me, getting friendly with the Jasper sled dogs.

Let's get this show on the road! Photo by Laurie Borman

Let's get this show on the road! Photo by Laurie Borman

Winter White Lipizzan Stallions at Tempel Farms

 

 

Tempel Farm stallion. Photo by Laurie Borman

Tempel Farm stallion. Photo by Laurie Borman

Old Mill Creek, IL–They live like royalty, resting in dark mahogany wood stalls and keeping warm under a bay of heat lamps after a bath.  Actually, these horses are royalty: part of the Hapsburgh lipizzan stallions, bred in Austria as intimidating warriors.  Their “airs above ground” with rear legs extended or front legs in the air and hopping forward, were moves to threaten enemy forces some 400 years ago.  Pretty impressive stuff then, and still is.  The Tempel Farms horses were brought over in 1958 by Tempel Smith and his wife, and the farm is still owned by their children.  Tours are available for groups in the winter; performances are in the summer.  Look for the one dark horse: that’s the lucky bay, a rare genetic quirk when the lipizzan (all are born dark brown) does not turn white.

Bringing a stallion in from exercise. Photo by Laurie Borman

Bringing a stallion in from exercise. Photo by Laurie Borman

 

 

The riding saddle. Photo by Laurie Borman

The riding saddle. Photo by Laurie Borman

Lake Michigan Winter Waves

Lake Michigan shore in winter. Photo by Laurie Borman

Lake Michigan shore in winter. Photo by Laurie Borman

Highwood, IL–

Snowshoeing along Openlands Lakefront Preserve sounds challenging, but the plowed road makes it almost too easy.  It’s like walking in an Ansel Adams photo–everything all black and white, and there is the challenge.  I’m no Ansel Adams.  The beach is no longer a gradual sandy slope, but an icy shelf. 

Icy Lake Michigan waves. Photo by Laurie Borman

Icy Lake Michigan waves. Photo by Laurie Borman

Openlands Lakefront. Photo by Laurie Borman

Openlands Lakefront. Photo by Laurie Borman

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